Konaki

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £6.85 (set lunch)
   £16 (evening meal)
• House wine: £10.95 (1 litre) per bottle

• Hitlisted
• High point: Generous portions, well delivered
• Low point: General exuberance can prove noisy
• Food served: Mon–Sat noon–late; Sun 5pm–late
• Open since: 2001
• Also offers: Children's portions, Children's high chairs, Wheelchair access, Takeaway, Pre-theatre menu

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
– in the shops now or buy online.

Family is important at Konaki. The kitchen uses home-grown olive oil matured in Grandma's cellar, wild herbs gathered on island holidays and recipes handed down through generations. Front of house, children receive an indulgent welcome, the whole restaurant sings for birthdays and live music sessions showcase the extended family's artistic talents. The food is no less exuberant. Owners Giorgios and Dimitri describe their aim as offering 'Cretan home hospitality for serious eaters', so hearty portions are vibrant with authentic flavours, while a passion for sourcing guarantees quality and freshness. Slow-cooked meatballs in tomato sauce with garlic, cumin and cinnamon offer a real comfort treat, as do the lemon and oregano potatoes. Souvlaki skewers and grills are delicately handled on the open charcoal fire, ensuring tenderness and flavour. Such attention augurs well for a planned menu extension offering customers the chance to choose key ingredients and flavours and let the kitchen cook 'freestyle'. The wine list offers easy-drinking Greek choices that suit the food and the bustling atmosphere, along with more familiar bottles for the less adventurous. With many regulars, reservations are essential on Fridays and Saturdays.