Konaki Greek Taverna

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

Whether you’re enjoying a quiet dinner in the smaller, front-facing, dining room or dancing on the tables at one of the near-legendary Greek nights, Konaki offers authentic, hearty Greek food in a relaxed atmosphere. Links to the old country are strong; a pre-starter of tomato bread and herbed olives is served with Konaki's own Cretan olive oil and there’s a good choice of Greek wines to wash it down. Among the starters, silky skordalia packs a garlic punch, while feta with prawns and tomato sauce is a piquant, balanced combination. The mains are a roll call of Greece’s greatest hits: souvlaki, pastitsio, meatballs and the like. Lamb kleftiko is a delight; cooked for nine hours, it falls apart with the slightest prod of a fork. Moussaka showcases a delicately wobbly béchamel atop nutmeg-scented meat and chunky potato. Traditional Greek puddings end the meal on a sugar-rush, but con miel – ice-cream topped with crisp glazed almonds and Greek honey – is a lighter option. Portions are generous, but with food like this, you may find yourself clearing the plate anyway.

• High point: Luscious slow-cooked meat dishes
• Low point: Dining room could be warmer