Willow Tea Rooms

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

For the many thousands of visitors making the Mackintosh pilgrimage each year, the Willow Tea Rooms is a mandatory stop. The Sauchiehall Street premises boast the original glasswork and mirrors in its pink and grey Room de Luxe, while the Buchanan Street branch faithfully recreates the masculine teal Chinese Room and ladies' White Dining Room of the old Ingram Street Tea Rooms. The same menu is served in both locations and features lunches and teas with a heavy Scottish accent. Arbroath smokies are offered with a hearty slice of Cloutie dumpling; haggis, neeps and tatties are fashioned into a tri-colour gateau; and the nationality of the brie, cheddar, smoked salmon and bacon is predictably trumpeted. Cullen skink is thick enough to stand a spoon in and creamily comforting with dainty potato chunks, flecks of parsley and robust smoked haddock. Home baking also has its place with such delights as 'magic bars' – a coconut, chocolate, cherry and condensed milk concoction – appearing alongside the usual scones, brownies and millionaire shortcake. Tea-lovers are in heaven, choosing from a wide-range of loose teas, including the house blend, served the old-fashioned way, with ceremony, hot water and a strainer.

• High point: If you love Mackintosh, you'll love this
• Low point: If you don't, you might not