Fouters Bistro

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Since assuming ownership in late 2006, chef George Ramage (previously at Arran's Auchrannie resort and other places) has put his stamp on this Ayr landmark restaurant without changing the feel of the place. Located in a stone basement – once 18th century bank vaults – the main dining room is cosy and intimate, with space for only about 20. (A second 'vault' can handle a dozen more diners). Ramage's menus feature Scottish ingredients, whether wood pigeon (roasted and served with Stornoway black pudding) or north Atlantic cod (accompanied by horseradish mash). He doesn't shy from imaginative touches, either. Pink seared Gressingham duck breast can come surrounded by a sweet chocolate sauce, balanced with a tangy red cabbage and sultana compote. Smoked haddock and Arran grain mustard fish-cakes bring a nice fishy taste, complemented by creamed leeks and fennel. Fresh fish of the day might be John Dory fillets, seared expertly and accompanied by a light, fresh tomato concassé. Dishes display care and attention – sensations matched by the personal, low-key service. As we go to press, Fouters is contemplating a 5pm opening to offer a new pre-theatre menu.

• High point: Food with hand-made touches
• Low point: Cool cream-filled choux pastry beignets