Cross Keys Hotel

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Previously famed for its pub-grub, this classic old tavern on Kippen Main Street has been given a creative culinary boost courtesy of new proprietors and new head chef Francis Girvan. Regulars will be relieved to note that the characteristic oak beams, wooden tables, open fires and flagstone floors have been left intact, and, with its narrow doorways, low ceilings and higgledy-piggledy nooks and crannies, Cross Keys maintains a cosy, affable atmosphere. The daily menu is big on fresh produce and local sourcing, and mixes staples such as fish pie, pork chop and grilled salmon with more adventurous fare including a starter of red pepper risotto – tender and succulent, infused with a fresh, edgy tomato pesto – or a crisp, freshly baked tart filled with smoked fish, spinach and cheese. From the mains, a deep, thick Moroccan stew, rife with cinnamon and clove, has a vigorous fruity undercurrent swirling around the meaty chunks of lamb, all readily mopped up by a caraway-seeded flatbread and some perfectly cooked rice. Food is served all day till 9pm in the bar, lounge and restaurant, which merge together into a large, spirited eating and drinking space where effusive locals, chatty families and serious foodies come together to enjoy a uniquely small-town atmosphere.

• High point: Classy pub grub in relaxed, characterful surroundings
• Low point: Service can sometimes relax too