Creagan House

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

Creagan House is an attractive, sandstone building in a pretty, tranquil setting at the head of Loch Lubnaig, north of Callander. First impressions are of an affluent, old-fashioned home: the restaurant is decorated and furnished in a baronial style that might feel dated elsewhere, but seems in keeping with the structure and location. Husband and wife team Gordon and Cherry Gunn look after kitchen and front-of-house respectively, and have picked up a few well-earned awards along the way. Cherry takes time to inform and converse with guests; Gordon is such a perfectionist that he insists on doing all the cooking. Scallops are hand-dived and come with tender pork belly, but the pull of the quaintly-named 'smokie in a pokie' is strong. A house speciality, it consists of smoked haddock wrapped in a parcel of delicately smoked salmon. Main courses, such as juicy fillet steak of local Aberdeen Angus beef and flaky, baked halibut with a crispy, golden exterior, are served with an interesting variety of seasonal vegetables. Desserts are all home-made and feature traditional Scottish puddings alongside more modern confections paired with cream or local ice-cream.

• High point: A host who takes a personal interest in guests and great food
• Low point: Some may find it a little old-fashioned