The Peat Inn

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

Following in the footsteps of someone like David Wilson, who, with his wife Patricia, spent 35 years at the Peat Inn establishing a reputation for good food, fine wine and impeccable service, was always going to be a challenge. However, it's one Geoffrey Smeddle (formerly head chef at Glasgow's étain) and his wife Katherine have taken up with gusto, giving the place a freshening up while retaining the same understated sophistication and warm welcome that made it one of Scotland's best-known restaurants (there are also rooms attached). Smeddle has cited the proximity of suppliers as one strong reason they moved from the city to Fife, and his menu brims with seasonal delights - ballotine of rabbit served with sweetbreads and pork, and Anstruther lobster with mango, lime and vanilla typify the starters. Opt for the tasting menu and you'll receive half of the entrée options as well as a main course. The choices here continue in the same vein, with rich Cairngorm venison and Jerusalem artichoke gratin matching elegant presentation with gratifying flavours, while wild sea bass accompanied by braised oxtail and horseradish velouté draws together delicacy and innovation. With desserts, such as a delightfully creamy warm hazelnut and milk chocolate fondant accompanied by espresso ice-cream, the Peat Inn looks set to stay on most food lovers' wish lists.

• High point: A menu so full of delights, it'll make your head spin
• Low point: Disappointing coffee