Deans at Let's Eat

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• Average price 2 courses:
   £11.95 (set lunch)
   £22 (evening meal)
• House wine: £14.50 per bottle

• High point: Inspired flourishes such as home-made saffron and vanilla bread, and innovative ideas with vegetables
• Low point: Overly discreet waiting staff can fail to interact with the diners
• Food served: Tue-Sat noon-2pm, 6.30-9.45pm. Closed Sun/Mon.
• Open since: 2005
• Also offers: Childrens portions, Childrens high chairs, Wheelchair access

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

Following a major refurbishment in early 2007, marking another step in the transition from the days of Let's Eat on this site, Deans Restaurant oozes comfort and class. Linen-covered tables, an open fire and huge sofas - from where you study the menu over a bowl of olives and warm roasted nuts - give the feel of a country house hotel, while feature lighting and bold, framed photographs of the food lend it a contemporary edge. Like the décor, the head chef Willie Deans' menu combines the classic and the contemporary, influenced by the seasons and not shy with flavours. 'Simply' smoked salmon and rib eye steak with chunky chips cater to good British tastes while, for the more adventurous, there's smoked duck and peppered chicken liver salad with a soya and ginger dressing, or fillet of sea bass and langoustine on fennel and vine tomatoes, with an apple balsamic dressing. There's a market special every day, which, if the dish proves popular, is adopted on the ever-evolving menu. The wine list, which has been recently upgraded, is causing a murmur of appreciation among diners for both range and price, and, with its modern approach to food and relaxed ambience, the restaurant is drawing a new generation of diners from both Perth and further afield.