Burts Hotel

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

Situated bang in the centre of Melrose, home of the famous rugby sevens, Burts Hotel is something of a local landmark. Established and run by Graham Henderson and his two sons, for 30 years it has been serving a devoutly loyal Borderers set. Inside the warm, super-traditional dining room (decorated Georgian style, with lush carpet and curtains, a giant, ornate mirror and pictures of woodcock and fishing flies) the service works like the well-oiled machine you'd expect, with menus, wine list and bread rolls all being presented within minutes of your arrival. Starters of Teviot smoked salmon taste suitably leapt-out-of-the-Tweed fresh, while the tangy goat's cheese and potato comes prettily encircled with a daisy chain of pine nuts, chive and hazelnut vinaigrette. Mains are robust and hearty, with local game and fish featuring extensively. A trio of lamb cutlets are textbook tender and tasty, while halibut with saffron and spring onion mash is delicate and warmly soothing. Puddings are venerable too, with an oozy fondant chocolate pud and butterscotch ice-cream combination, while those looking for a less substantial finish would do well to pick the creamy panacotta. A proper, first-class product from start to finish.

• High point: Use of local produce
• Low point: Atmosphere a tad muted