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• Average price 2 courses: £8
• House wine: £10.50 per bottle

• High point: The relaxing surroundings
• Low point: Processed taste and appearance of veggie burger
• Food served: Mon-Sat 8am-7pm; Sun 9am-7pm
• Open since: 1931
• Also offers: Childrens portions, Childrens high chairs, Take away

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

Brooklyn has deeper echoes of New York than simply its name - its front counter, crammed with sweet jars, cakes and miscellaneous items of food, is a familiar sight in any city benefiting from an early 20th century wave of Italian immigration. And then there's the Pelosi family dynasty. Founded in 1931 by the current owner's great-great-grandfather and his brothers, the brick-walled, two-level café is but one of the extended family's hospitality interests, others including the Pelosi Ice-Cream Company and the nearby Evelyn's Café. Brooklyn is as down-to-earth as its namesake, offering substantial portions such as garlic mushrooms pooled in garlicky butter, served with plenty of bread for mopping. There's also a pizza/pasta lunch combo and crunchy, chunky fries come with virtually everything. While the standard menu of ciabatta, panini and pasta doesn't take any unexpected twists, the specials often feature more diverse fare - a smoked salmon wrap, or fennel sausages with onion gravy, for example. However, Brooklyn's true appeal lies in its indifference towards mere fashion. In typical Italian style, traditional hospitality is top priority, and it's possible to find yourself still there two hours later, thinking about having another go at that fabulously creamy, award-winning ice-cream.