Fishers in the City

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

This busy, townie sister of the fabulous original at the Shore has gained a great reputation for finesse and atmosphere since it opened in 2001. It's chock-a-block all day (booking is essential), and, in the evening, the shoppers and business lunchers give way to a crowd made up of regulars, locals and tourists. The split-level layout and seafaring décor are comfortingly reminiscent of its older sibling, but feel newer and slightly sleeker. The menu changes daily, and is vaguely fusion: Oriental, Middle Eastern and Mediterranean flavours are all on show here. As well as the daily menu there are the 'Fishers' favourites', which feature the famous fish-cakes – served with chive mayonnaise as a main they are fluffy and delicious. From the à la carte menu, starters of pan-fried Scottish scallops with beurre noisette, and seared harissa-coated Indian Ocean tuna served with vermicelli noodle salad, garnished with deep-fried chillies and garlic, are great to share. Mains are generous and tasty: a pan-fried fillet of Scottish sea bass on shallot-braised puy lentils with salsa verde has just the right level of piquancy with the sweetness of the fish. Desserts are a little disappointing (rock-hard baklava and an unimpressive polenta cake), but don't detract from a delicious experience.

• High point: Busy, slick atmosphere
• Low point: Desserts could do with a rethink