Fishers in the City

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £20 (lunch)
   £20 (evening meal)
• House wine: £12.95 per bottle

• Hitlisted
• High point: Smart and sexy cooking
• Low point: Distinctly unsexy vegetables in a side dish
• Food served: Mon-Sun noon-10.30pm
• Bar open: Mon-Sat noon-1am; Sun 12.30pm-1am
• Private dining: Up to 50 covers
• Open since: 2001
• Also offers: Childrens portions, Childrens high chairs, Wheelchair access

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

An unprepossessing entry off Thistle Street leads to a theatrical and modern interior with a distinctly nautical feel. Split-level nooks, clusters of bric-a-brac and a splendid wooden boat-shaped bar make up the lower level, with bistro-style tall tables huddled around the bar. Chef Jonathon Lumb takes an enlightened approach to the dishes, creating lively, inventive combinations that enhance - rather than douse - the fresh seafood. A mound of juicy pan-fried king scallops, for instance, goes perfectly well with a tower of rich pea purée topped with crispy shards of hot smoky pancetta, while a nicely balanced paella is rife with prawn, chorizo and salmon. From the mains, large chunks of springy pan-fried monkfish are served with a spicy quinoa tabouleh and red pepper sauce that assails the fish with vigorous flavours, while the flesh of a whole dover sole takes on a savoury splendour when infused with the juices of caramelised shallots and heartily splashed with spinach butter. Adventurous cooking is the hallmark of this relatively new sister of Fishers Bistro in Leith. Add to this a selection of familiar favourites (fish-cakes, mussels), a well thought out and priced wine list and amiable, vigilant floor staff and the new arrival may be outgrowing its sibling.