Songkran

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

Plenty of people walk past this basement restaurant without realising it’s there, even though it has been established almost a decade now. Word of mouth means office workers know it’s a reliable spot at lunchtime for speedy and friendly service, with even the replacement of a fork prompting a neat bow from the waiter. Fresh flowers and brightly coloured knick-knacks are dotted throughout. A pre-theatre deal at £11.95 is good value, although like the popular lunchtime special (£9.95 for two courses) quality can occasionally slip, with overly oily curry sauces detracting from the cosy charm of the place. Like its sister restaurant, Songkran II on Gloucester Street in Stockbridge, the menu strives to offer a few off-the-beaten-track options including a zesty sweet orange chicken or platter of sizzling duck in whisky sauce. Highlights include the mild and creamy gang sapporod pineapple curry, and the wide range of wonton style pastry starters, prawn rolls and delicious stuffed pancakes, garnished with purple orchids and carrot roses. Stafford Street is handier for the city centre, but Songkran II's candlelit stone walls and gilt ornaments feel a little smarter, while still keeping the relaxed, take-your-time approach to a dinner with friends.

• High point: Smiling staff, slick service
• Low point: Too much choice