Oloroso

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

With its sleek linear stylings, bold yellow flashes and adjoining cocktail bar, Oloroso cut quite a dash when its elevator first sprang open back in 2001. Since then, while nearby George Street competitors have been catching up in the style stakes, Tony Singh and team have been cementing Oloroso's reputation for fine food, wine and service. Three floors up, and with magnificent views over the Edinburgh skyline, they've certainly had a head start as far as location is concerned – the wide terrace is surely one of the city's most attractive alfresco dining spots. While a simplified menu is served in the open air, inside a more formal tone is adopted. The menu takes two paths: à la carte, featuring innovative, contemporary fare such as a starter of warm goat's cheese fondant with caramelised pear tart and truffle, honey and walnut salad; and a grill menu for which Oloroso has become renowned. Along with veal and seafood options, prime cuts of Highland beef, divine in both texture and flavour, come simply served alongside an accompaniment of your choice – be that red wine jus, salsa verde or garlic butter. The kitchen's light touch carries on through to dessert, while a thoughtfully constructed wine list completes a confident all-round performance.

• High point: Creative cooking in contemporary surroundings… all under the watchful eye of the castle
• Low point: Can feel a little austere on quieter nights