Brian Maule at Chardon d'Or

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

It's seven years since Brian Maule moved back to his native Scotland to develop his philosophy of bold, classic cuisine (initially nurtured by the brothers Roux in London). In this time, Chardon d'Or has become one of Glasgow's few destination restaurants, drawing its fair share of the rich, famous and expense-account holders. Within the clean white lines of this bright Victorian townhouse – punctuated by colourful abstracts and still-lifes – Maule serves up fine food that eschews the fashionable foams or trendy veloutés. Instead, there are simple, seasonal dishes that illuminate each ingredient. These might include wedges of delectable, crisped confit lamb in a vivid, stock-enriched sauce of tomato, torn basil and firm haricot beans, or delicate, curling fillets of sole in a light haddock bisque with chopped leeks that retain just enough crunch. Desserts are also excellently executed, be it an elegant three-chocolate mousse tower or whopping bowl-shaped tarte tatin through which vanilla ice-cream oozes when broken. The smart service is reserved but efficient and, while lunches can feel a little too business-friendly, the evening sittings seem less formal in atmosphere. A personal touch is added by Maule himself, who often tours the room at the end of sittings.

• High point: Dazzling flavours
• Low point: Starters don't quite hit the heights of what comes after