Parthenon

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

Murals depicting bearded Greek philosophers enjoying an amphora or two of wine grace the walls of the Parthenon, along with repro details of famous Athenian friezes. But that's about as far as the classical allusions go in the contemporary setting of this long-established, family-run restaurant. The place is regularly inundated by concert and theatre-goers on their way to nearby Òran Mór, but the smart, pleasant staff are totally unfazed as they steer diners through the intricacies of a larger-than-average Greek menu. Avgolemono, a traditional soup, is a subtle concoction of chicken broth, given body by rice and complemented by a zesty and deeply satisfying lemon infusion. A main course of stifado is a glorious rendition of the Greek stew: tender cubes of beef luxuriating in a rich red wine sauce and flavoured with cinnamon. The restaurant's take on a Turkish-style pilaf, meanwhile, is moist. If you're especially hungry - or if there are three or more in your dining party - consider adding a char-grilled halloumi salad to your order and savour its smoky delights.

• High point: Above-average wine offer
• Low point: A trek to the toilets