La Tasca

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

La Tasca is a chain covering the whole of the UK (including five Scottish locations) and Glasgow's branch conforms to a corporate model that dictates menu, drinks and décor. But don't let that put you off. It may function with the ruthless efficiency of a well-oiled machine, but the food can be equal to many more obviously authentic and individual restaurants, the service is fast and friendly, prices are very reasonable and the atmosphere can be fun – especially when the place is busy. La Tasca (the word in Spain would denote a cheap neighbourhood bar) sources Spanish charcuterie and cheeses, while ingredients such as paella rice, smoked paprika and marinated anchovies are the real Iberian deal, too. Although the menu holds no surprises and nothing like the seasonal variation that characterises eating in Spain, there seems to be a deft hand working in the kitchen. A mixture of fried fish is appetisingly light. The slow-cooked lamb and potato stew is rich and unctuous. An unusually wide choice of alcohol includes 16 wines by the glass (plus sherries), regional Spanish beers, brandies and the kind of obscure liqueurs that you normally only find on holiday.

• High point: Good value, decent quality fast food
• Low point: Seen one La Tasca, you've seen them all