Fratelli Sarti

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

Most Glaswegians who eat out and like Italian food have at some point passed through the doors of at least one of Sarti’s three sites. You’ll pay a couple of quid more than in other places, but it’s pretty much a sure thing in terms of quality. North-Italian flavours come through, in starters like Piemontese peppers with olives and capers, held together by a lemony-drizzle of olive oil and shavings of parmesan, or mains like salsiccia Sarti al uccelletto, a hearty plate of soft, subtly-spiced Tuscan sausage and mashed potato with a sweet sauce built round tomato, borlotti beans and a hint of garlic. Elsewhere, classic dishes are equally well-rendered. Tortellini in brodo sees delicate little parcels of meat in clear, crisp chicken stock, while ricotta ravioli’s creamy sauce and strong hit of cheese pleasingly contrast with the crunchy, sharp acidity of the accompanying asparagus. Pizzas have ruggedly authentic toppings– wild boar; fiery Sicilian salami; potato, onion and rosemary. And the Renfield Street branch is also the most magnificent in which to dine, a listed building with marble floors and tables, majestic red wood and a relief statue, surrounded by wines and cakes that customers can buy to take away.

• High point: Lots of character in the menu and the decor
• Low point: Service can be slow; not the cheapest