Rawalpindi Tandoori

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Established some three decades ago, Rawalpindi describes its 'fine Indian cuisine' as 'probably the best in Glasgow'. The atmosphere inside the eatery, where swathes of pink material hang from the ceiling along with some rather wilted pot plants and a crystal chandelier, is one of relaxed shabby-chic. The reasonably imaginative menu includes a starter of puri, a deep-fried wholewheat pancake served with either king prawn, chicken, vegetables or chana – chickpeas – and cooked in a thick sauce of capsicums, tomatoes and onions. The chicken chaat, made with spicy yoghurt and lemon juice and then barbecued in a clay oven, is a rather alarming shade of red, served with a somewhat sticky sauce. One main course well worth trying is the pari, a mild barbecued chicken dish made with white wine, onions, mushrooms and cream. There is also an interesting selection of breads including the roghi naan, which is stuffed with pistachio and cashew nuts and covered in egg yolk. To cool and cleanse your palate at the end of a meal, sample some of the matha kulfi (traditional Indian ice-cream), flavoured with saffron sauce, pistachios and almonds. It comes beautifully presented in a patterned ceramic bowl and makes for wonderfully exotic afters.

• High point: Friday night's four-course 'royal buffet'
• Low point: Faded paint on the walls

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