Miss Cranston's Tearoom

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Perhaps it is unfair to judge Miss Cranston's Tearoom on a wet midweek afternoon, when the manager has been on leave and the café feels rather like an empty hotel dining room. This is an old-style Glasgow caff, whose largely unchanging formula has led to a loyal following of pensioners, business-lunchers and tourists. The décor has a slightly faded glory: single roses on white tablecloths are undermined by some worn upholstery and carpets. Tables by the large windows are most prized. The menu has a down-to-earth feel with many a 70s combo: gammon and pineapple, chicken and ham, cheese and tomato. The fish teas often sell out fast. The mini Aberdeen Angus pies – served with clapshot and gravy – can carry a beef-stock flavour, while a potato scone wrap – with cottage cheese and tinned pineapple – is somewhat tough. Coming to the rescue, the cake selection features a rhubarb Cumnock tart, which is light, with a pleasing rhubarb kick and a scoop of ice-cream. The chocolate éclairs are everything they should be. The bakery downstairs has a wonderful aroma and its selection, including hand-made chocolates, is an eye-candy bonanza, like something from a Hansel and Gretel storybook.

• High point: Fairytale cakes and a great window seat
• Low point: Jaded savoury choices – although menu is set to improve soon