The Brasserie on George Square

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Located inside the Millennium Hotel, the Brassiere on George Square offers an elegant dining space: warm earth tones and muted lighting dominate the main area, while some fine George Square views are available from the streetside conservatory. Service from the mainly young team is professional yet breezy, and the atmosphere is relaxed and informal. The menu champions Scottish meats and seafood. Among typical starters, Loch Fyne scallops are fresh and meaty, quivering on top of crisp and lightly spiced black pudding. Unfortunately the accompanying pancetta and olive mash is a bit stodgy, weighing the dish down. Steaks are a kitchen speciality and an 8oz sirloin shows accomplished skills: it's charred on the outside while pink in the middle and retains all its meaty juices. A variety of sauces (from garlic and parsley butter to shallot and red wine) come in their own pouring jug, ready to dribble over the top. Finish with an exotic and fruity mango-coconut panacotta or perhaps the warm chocolate brownies, which are rich and gooey with sharp black cherries in a kirsch syrup.

• High point: Great views from the conservatory
• Low point: You can't quite forget you're in a hotel