The Brasserie on George Square

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £9.50 (set lunch)
   £23 (evening meal)
• House wine: £15 per bottle

• High point: Conservatory view of George Square
• Low point: Discrepancies between menu and dishes served
• Food served: Mon-Sat 7-10am, noon-2.15pm, 6-10.15pm; Sun 7.30-10.30am, 6-10.15pm
• Private dining: Up to 32 covers
• No. overnight rooms: 117
• Open since: 2000
• Also offers: Childrens portions, Childrens high chairs, Wheelchair access, Pre-theatre menu

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

There is a look of polished elegance to the grand public dining room of the Millennium Hotel, with its high ceilings, heavy curtains and wooden floors. Buffed black tabletops virtually twinkle as they reflect the lights of the nearby civic plaza. Despite having such a large space, the Brasserie on George Square is rather effectively partitioned so that diners don't feel completely dwarfed on quieter nights. Dishes tend to focus on simply-prepared produce, from Scottish shellfish to wild mushrooms. Potato blinis, topped with a meaty chunk of warmed kiln-roasted salmon, are creamy and well-matched with a tangy shallot crème fraiche. Some may find the pan-fried loin of venison less successful, however: a somewhat dubious cut of meat on this visit was cooked too long and apparently missing the menu's cited spiced sweet peppercorn sauce. Pan-fried Loch Fyne scallops, available as starter or main course, are accompanied by silky boudin noir slices, crisp pancetta and mashed potatoes. From the mostly fruit-themed dessert list, a lemon tart has a crunchy pastry case and soft custard filling, if little hint of citrus flavour. People-watchers should opt to dine beside tall windows that look out towards the city chambers.