Café Source

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Nestled in the basement of the imposing St Andrew's in the Square church (now a busy arts venue), this bustling café punches above its weight, serving a menu of quality Scottish classics to a standard higher than more formal establishments. The bar can get crowded during intervals and before scheduled shows upstairs, but the atmosphere is mostly one of relaxed informality, which comes across in the tone of both the blonde-wood interior and the service. Starters might include such national favourites as haggis, hot smoked salmon, ham hough or a white and flaky pan-fried salt cod, arriving topped with a crispy won ton packed with fresh crab flavour. Chef Kenneth Donachie also throws in a few mussels making for a substantial, enjoyable starter. Mains range from light salads to stovies and Scotch pies, the latter served on a mound of hearty rumbledethumps and a mass of plump marrowfat peas. For dessert, a creamy lemon risotto has a sharp citrus tang and is served with a whole poached pear – rounding off a bargain of a meal.

• High point: Good food, large portions, great value
• Low point: A little off the beaten track