Blonde

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Jokes mocking the fairer-haired may be ten-a-penny but this Blonde is certainly no dummy. Situated in a sleepy Southside street, the restaurant positively buzzes during the Festival due to its proximity to the Pleasance, but pulls in a regular crowd year round, having mastered that most sought-after of qualities: universal appeal. Indeed, the light wooden furniture and cream colour scheme make for a neutral space, lent a little atmosphere by flickering tea lights and the quiet clatter from the kitchen. Similarly, the menu manages to appease the cautious while still appealing to the adventurous – the former settling perhaps for a steaming pile of plump mussels paddling in a classic lemon, parsley and vermouth cream; the latter branching out with a rich and meaty venison casserole, patiently braised with red wine, root vegetables and chocolate. Those watching their waistline can side with one of a selection of lighter leafy dishes – think Mexican chicken and asparagus salad sprinkled with mixed nuts and a lemon crème fraiche dressing. Equally, from rich and smooth raspberry crème brûlée to traditional banoffee pie, those going for calorific broke will find plenty to soothe their saccharine cravings.

• High point: A versatile and great-value neighbourhood favourite that aims to please
• Low point: Seasoning of savoury dishes can be a bit erratic