Ristorante Sambuca

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Nestled on Causewayside, off the south-east tip of the Meadows, this humble little Italian restaurant produces dishes that are quite different – principally the ones that have a trademark shot of sambuca drizzled over them as they are served. The spirit is set alight so that the dish briefly blazes a brilliant blue. The liquor infuses into the creamy sauce, adding an unusual note of aniseed to contrast the flavour which works surprisingly well. Such special treatment is given to the split crayfish and the gamberoni (king prawns). Also available are various traditional pastas (as starter or main), pizzas and veal and chicken dishes. However, the fresh seafood dishes scream out as being the chef’s favourites and the ones to go for. Making good use of the top-quality Eddie’s Seafood Supplies nearby, the home-made lobster ravioli is scrumptious, and the tasty whole sea bream with a rustic cherry tomato sauce is reliably special. Opting for a coffee or a digestif is advisable as an alternative to dessert. A regular crowd of locals and students, who turn a blind eye to the desperate need for an interior revamp, come here to enjoy homely Italian food at reasonable prices.

• High point: Italian seafood cooking with spirit
• Low point: Lacklustre décor and squirty-cream puds