Café Marlayne

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

Café Marlayne has established itself firmly on the Edinburgh French restaurant scene, having survived 10 years and a move of its second branch from off the Royal Mile to new premises opposite the Playhouse Theatre. The two venues are markedly different. The pretty little Thistle Street restaurant remains ideal for an intimate tête-à-tête, while the barn-like proportions of the new Antigua Street venue make it suited to large parties. High, white-washed walls, a supersized glitterball and bold Ikea lampshades give the place a wide-open feel that fits its fluid, all-day format. Whereas Thistle Street operates bistro hours only, Antigua Street is open for breakfasts and pre-theatre dinners as well, and sells sandwiches, cakes and coffees throughout the day from a small café at the front. The menu in both locations is really a fusion of France and Scotland as head chef Islay Fraser experiments with the produce of her own country and the influence of her business partner Marcelline Levicky’s home. A soft boudin noir starter with Scottish king scallops highlights this from the off, accompanied by sautéed potatoes and rosemary dressing. Venus surf clams with chorizo, onion, paprika, sherry and coriander are even harder to place though very tasty. A soft pink duck breast served with apple, cider and thyme jus makes a good main while a fishy option can be found in a roast monkfish with crushed new potatoes, rocket and crispy Parma ham. Flavours here are more subtle than many a garlic-laden French classic and the menu as a whole offers variety and good value for money. Neither branch is the place to be delicate about dessert; such luxuries as a soft and fluffy almond, chocolate torte or a crispy nut-topped lemon cake, both served with a big dollop of double cream on the side, are a highlight.

• High point: Let them eat cake – with a dollop of double cream
• Low point: Let them eat meat – not a single vegetarian main on offer