Songkran II

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

After the success of Songkran, which opened in Edinburgh's West End in 2000, Songkran II appeared in Stockbridge the following year, riding perhaps a little on a (now-waning) mania for Thai food. The menus are identical, even down to the wine lists. In terms of location and atmosphere, Songkran II, just off the main drag in a cosy stone house, is far more appealing. But its predecessor works well as a lunch destination - after hours, the quiet streets in this part of town aren't conducive to a lively gathering. That said, the extensive menu is still attractive enough to warrant an early evening foray. The seemingly mass-produced starters are slightly disappointing, but the Thai fish-cakes, steamed wontons and prawn tempura are tasty and lifted by their accompanying dipping sauces. Of the mains, the yang chicken, char-grilled and marinated in Oriental spices, is smoky and tender, while the kung oob is a surprising blend of steamed prawns in lemon-grass, lime leaves, white wine and basil. The jungle curry, although not as adventurous as the name would suggest, is satisfying enough. Desserts include the standard fritters and sorbets, but if you want to go all out, opt for the over-the-top Songkran bombe - deep-fried ice-cream with syrup and cream.

• High point: The deliciously tender steamed prawns
• Low point: Disappointing starters