The Ping On

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

A handy location, late opening hours and moody atmosphere have allowed Ping On to build up a loyal legion of Stockbridge regulars. At first glance its reputation appears deserved, with its cosy low lighting and tastefully kitsch décor. But although the service is prompt, Ping On appears to have fallen victim to its own hype. The choice of starters is reasonably wide, with vegetarians well catered for, but the intriguing 'vegetable cocktail' is little more than cheap salad ingredients drowned in a suspiciously prawn-tasting sauce, and of the slightly more substantial meat-based options, not even the spring rolls can warrant any praise above ho-hum. The main courses are a little more adventurous, with the fluffy and gently flavoured Ping On special fried rice packed with an interesting range of meats. The satay vegetables, however, arrive at the table drowning in a curry sauce more reminiscent of a chip shop than a Chinese restaurant. Again, the desserts are your bog-standard affair: don't attempt the overly zesty orange sorbet unless zing really is your thing. Overall, Ping On is a disappointingly bland experience, but the convenience obviously satisfies locals with a late-night craving for a cheap and cheerful Chinese meal.

• High point: Great location and presentation
• Low point: Lazy cooking