Rick's

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Sunset-coloured lights shine from behind the bar in this chic, subterranean Frederick Street restaurant/hotel. Guests of Rick's enjoy the stylish atmosphere created by low lamps, sleek leather furniture and funky music. As for food, Rick's offers separate menus for lunch, dinner and weekend brunch. The evening menu features a wide variety of starters, platters and mains. Garlic mussels float in a bowl of buttery white wine broth. The crispy smoked haddock fish-cakes, which arrive round and golden, taste even better when dunked in basil mayonnaise. The roasted pork belly, cut into sticky strips, comes with a grainy mustard mash. Spicy carrot and cumin fritters surround the pan-seared black pearl scallops, and the entire dish is laced with a subtle yoghurt dressing. For dessert, a safe bet is the creamy crème brûlée with green rhubarb compote. The wine list is very good and the cocktails are even better, perhaps because of their beautiful colours and exceptionally silky taste. Smooth service, combined with impressive décor and varied menus, make this a great place to take a date.

• High point: Menu includes cigar service
• Low point: Can be noisy