Katie's Diner

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Convivial proprietors Geoff and Kate Ness look after this unpretentious wee place on the edge of the Meadows. Despite its pink and blue neon sign, Katie's is not a real diner, according to the infectiously agreeable Geoff. Indeed, it's less Harry-met-Sally, hectic New York style, and more pleasant tea room somewhere upstate where the leaves go red in the fall and stars and stripes flutter in white picket-fenced front yards. An electric guitar, Edward Hopper prints and photography by the Ness' neighbour, Jean, adorn the walls; Van Morrison and Don McLean do the tunes. Old school starters such as breaded garlic mushrooms and deep fried prawn 'demons' keep the mood going while Kate demonstrates her flair for cooking good 'ol steak. The menu is without airs and all about Stateside-style burgers, chicken and yes, steak – four cuts, six ways. 'Rosy' chicken is pan-fried and fine, in a sauce of sun-dried tomatoes and creamy white wine. All alluring to calorie cravers, Kate's desserts come welcomingly from the hearth, and would probably win prizes at a village fête. Banoffee shortcake sure crumbles and comforts and double chocolate chip brownies make you feel about seven, in a good way.

• High point: The affable Geoff and Kate
• Low point: Tables a squeeze for four