Borough

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Borough has long been one of Edinburgh's best-kept secrets, serving up cocktails and chilled beats, but just beyond the retro chic of the bar rests a small but perfectly formed restaurant. Mellow lighting from a galaxy of small, scattered light bulbs shines gently down on dark green or burgundy C-shaped booths and just a couple of open tables. Get a booth if you can – they're comfortably intimate without being claustrophobic – and relax. Borough is nothing if not easy-going, and the laid-back vibe is reflected in the menu, a soul-enriching collection of indulgent comfort food. Starters are particularly strong, with special mentions for the deliciously gamey chicken liver pâté and a Greek salad topped with smoky, char-grilled halloumi. Mains suffer a little by comparison, but certainly make up for it in quantity – the sausages and mash are incorrigibly plural, with six bangers vying for attention on a mattress of potato, and even the salmon fish-cake is the size of a small country. The restaurant has recently done away with its à la carte and focused instead on upgrading its bar food, making it ideal for a relaxed meal or Sunday brunch.

• High point: Cocktails that put George Street to shame
• Low point: Quantity sometimes outdoes quality