1901

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Named after the completion date of the building, which originally housed the Swan Inn, the premises today offers a lively traditional pub and stylish bistro. The latter's dark blue walls, red and blue panelling and cream curtains and blinds give it a continental feel. Paintings by local artists are on display and for sale, adding to its easygoing charm. Great care has evidently been taken over the menu and the quality and presentation of each dish: a starter of prawns pil pil could have come from any self-respecting Spanish tapas bar and the creamy chicken liver pâté arrives with enough bread to feed the Southside. Main courses are reflective of 1901's French ownership and Scottish setting. For example, the chicken Balmoral is stuffed with haggis and drizzled with whisky sauce. The roast breast of duck comes perfectly pink in the centre, with a soya and ginger glaze, accompanied by crispy but firm roast potatoes and crunchy stir-fried vegetables. A selection of pastas can also be served in normal or small portions, and other main courses range from steak to pan-fried scallops. Puddings are perhaps a little less consistent, but the slight dryness of a sticky toffee pudding is more than compensated by butterscotch sauce and ice-cream.

• High point: A local institution and rightly so
• Low point: Slightly disappointing puds