Chow

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Bright lights, clean lines and minimal modern décor mark Chow out from most other Chinese restaurants in town. It's a little breath of fresh air that's been right at home among the hustle-bustle of Byres Road since opening its doors in 2002. Food is simple and well prepared. Wonton soup smells of rich, fresh stock, striking a nice balance of hot, savoury and sweet. Deep-fried crab claws – packed with crab and prawn meat – are typical of the many finger-food style opening courses that kick things off lightly. Despite the relaxed atmosphere, service is very attentive, with silver-served noodles topped up once your bowl becomes empty. (The hot Singapore variety is especially sharp and zesty.) Main courses look to the west of China, concentrating on tender and thinly sliced meats that contrast with the crunchy textures of nuts, water chestnuts or bean sprouts. A good example of this is beef with cashews or 'Tam's style chicken', which has a kick of chilli-garlic and a crust of sesame seeds. A small restaurant on a busy street, Chow can fill up quickly and that's hardly surprising. But for locals, there's an equally popular takeaway menu when there are no tables to be had.

• High point: Laid-back atmosphere
• Low point: No complimentary prawn crackers