Café Mao

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The relaxed atmosphere and pan-Asian menu at Café Mao have attracted a steady flow of easygoing diners for nearly a decade. Big windows, bright lighting and the primary colours of its branding make sure things don't get too formal, and the winning staff are rarely too busy to help out. In truth, the menu is Asian-lite – for example, the crunchy batter around chilli squid is arguably more chip shop than tempura – but is nonetheless full of flavoursome, filling dishes. A sticky pork salad is enlivened by the crunch and zing of cashew and mango. Vietnamese-style fish means a dainty but moist piece of grilled haddock marinated in a delicate lemon-grass and spice paste and served in banana leaf. Chilli lime beef is made with a good-quality piece of marinated fillet, served on noodles. Café Mao's crème brûlée rather sums up what's on offer: the subtle addition of coconut gives the pudding an imaginative twist without sending the more conservative-minded running for the hills. The operation also bends over backwards to accommodate waistline-watching diners, having hooked up with Scottish Slimmers to rate dishes for calorific and fat content. There is also a wide-ranging menu for coeliacs.

• High point: Charming staff helpful – but never overbearing
• Low point: Lighting a little harsh