Pulcinella

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

Named after the original Italian version of Mr Punch, this jolly little trattoria is decked out like the aftermath of a carnival float explosion, with murals, masks and random memorabilia all over the walls, along with patriotic flags and pictures. Although it’s small, it doesn’t feel too cramped, with both banquette and table seating, and red and white plastic tablecloths to match the walls giving it an informal feel, though the service is carefully attentive. The menu is traditional, with a large selection of antipasti including a very creamy tomato soup with a pungent taste of basil. Mediterranean fish stew is also rich and spicy, with plenty of variety and a generous helping of garlic bread on the side, while spaghetti pulcinella mixes crisp peppers, onion, garlic and chicken strips with a touch of chilli for a neat kick. Daily specials vary with the seasons, with tuna or lamb dishes rotating on to the board when available. On weekdays, it’s popular with office workers, but it has more of a family feel in the evenings.

• High point: Plenty to look at
• Low point: Not much privacy