Pulcinella

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

Robust home cooking is the house style of this cosy trattoria perched on the corner where Hope Street meets West George Street. A small foyer leads to a surprisingly spacious dining area with wooden floors, chequered tablecloths, globe lighting and lots of funky junk and generic posters adorning its red and cream walls. Antipasti includes pasta e faglioli – a thick borlotti bean soup, rich and earthy with a rosemary scented pureed base dotted with firm but yielding beans, while grigliata di verdure comes as expertly handled grilled peppers sharing a crispy salad with thick blackened courgettes in a silky film of herby olive oil. From the carni menu, pollo firenze is a rolled breast stuffed with prosciutto and cheese served with a tangy napoli sauce laced with sweet cherry tomatoes. Daily specials are displayed on a blackboard and may include a delectable perfectly cooked tuna steak on light couscous with a fresh lime dressing and a proper European salad featuring artichoke hearts and roasted peppers. Hefty portions, a warm atmosphere and considerate and friendly service make Pulcinella an ideal setting for those who like authentic cooking in an easy ambience.

• High point: Rural Italy on the high street
• Low point: Italian flags on the ceiling – wrong vibe