L'Ariosto

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Named after the Renaissance bard, L'Ariosto has many surprises. Designed to resemble an Italian courtyard and exuding a cosy atmosphere, it still has room to put on dinner dances with a live band five nights a week. It's almost 40 years old, but there's no resting on any laurels as owner/chef Giovanni Cecchetti changes the set menu on a weekly basis and sources food locally as well as importing the best Italian produce. Finally, the menus see a combination of old favourites – the mozzarella sticks have a lovely soft, breaded coating and are served with an orange and cranberry dip – and new stars such as carrot and coconut soup. This pretty rare combination proves an unexpected hit. Also from the set menu, trout alla Parigina, wrapped in prawn ducelle with a butter and almond sauce, is all subtle flavours and careful presentation. Flambé dishes served at your table are the crowd pleasers of the à la carte menu, which offers a large selection of veggie, meat, fish and seafood. In all, sheer poetry.

• High point: Quality food and service
• Low point: High-priced à la carte dishes may deter some