Rococo

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Abstract, aquamarine glass panels and sparkling pinpoint ceiling lights lend Rococo an air of cool elegance, while the linen settings and grown-up wine list add enough formality for even the most special of occasions. Unusually, dietary requirements are noted when booking a table, preventing any unexpected surprises for chef or customer. Such attention to detail is evident throughout, with the meal served at a measured pace by quiet and efficient staff. The menu employs largely French techniques with luxury ingredients, with foie gras, white truffle oil, aged balsamic emulsions and exotically named sauces. The tone of the meal is set with an amuse bouche of smoked salmon and caviar. Dark, crumbly black pudding from the Isle of Lewis is topped with a quivering poached egg and sauce soubise, a rich white onion sauce. While a plum tomato, shallot and toasted hazelnut salad fails to deliver the flavours promised, a honey-roasted duck served pink with a crisp salty skin is much better – but at these prices the accompaniment could have been more inventive than half a roasted carrot and parsnip. Desserts include a restrained chocolate and orange cheesecake, its citrus flavours subtle rather than overpowering.

• High point: Elegant surroundings
• Low point: Chef's kitchen banter heard in restaurant