The Sisters

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Since moving from Ashton Lane to Jordanhill a few years back, the Sisters restaurant has become regarded as one of the better options in Glasgow. But its location off the beaten track made it one of the trickiest to find (though once you've been, it is quite easily located next to the railway station). The rather chic and more recently launched Kelvingrove outlet poses no navigational problems at all, however. Owned by sisters Jacqueline and Pauline O'Donnell (who once did catering in private homes), the restaurants demonstrate a continued dedication to providing excellent service and home-cooking taken to another level. A passion for sourcing shows: the menu brims with the likes of Ullapool smoked salmon, roast Arran pumpkin or wild Arisaig venison. Uist scallops are rested on mounds of peat-smoked haddock mash, the contrasting textures and deeply fishy aromas making for a gem of a starter. Elsewhere, little breasts of Perthshire wood pigeon come on a sweet roast shallot tart with a rich game jus. Another knockout. Slices of caramelised Limerick ham are served with rumbledethump tatties. A wobbly chocolate pudding with a melting middle is as superb as a mint-choc chip ice-cream laced with real mint leaves. All in all, a showcase of modern Scottish cooking.

• High point: Great soundtrack (Bonnie Prince Billy to Johnny Cash)
• Low point: Sisters don't come to your house any more

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