Camerons

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses: £25
• House wine: £28 per bottle
• BYOB:

• High point: Elegance amid urban bustle
• Low point: Exorbitant house wine, especially by the glass
• Food served: Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm; Sat 6-10pm. Closed Sun
• Bar open: Mon-Fri 9am-midnight; Sat/Sun 10am-1am.
• Private dining: Up to 8 covers
• No. overnight rooms: 343
• Open since: 1992
• Also offers: Childrens portions, Childrens high chairs, Wheelchair access, Post-theatre menu

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

The Hilton's fine-dining restaurant is a sanctum of formal calm away from the concrete contortions and M8 traffic nearby, but there is little to remind diners they are in Glasgow. From middle-aged, moneyed couples, through Greco-Roman pillars and a live piano medley of James Bond themes, Camerons aspires to a quaint sense of high-society refinement. Jacobean portraits add Scottish flavour, albeit more country house than Glaswegian grit. Starters include Jerusalem artichoke cappuccino, a rich, creamy soup with langoustine and herb fritters forming a fleshy little island in the middle. Goat's cheese agnolini - similar to ravioli - with cauliflower velouté is a pleasing mix of crumble and cream. A main of supple, ruddy duck breast is served with crunchy asparagus, baby carrots and port jus, while cod fillet, tender and pliant, is subtly livened with rocket and lemon oregano sauce. A standout dessert invites warm banana pudding to be smothered in thick passion fruit cream, then chased down with tingly passion fruit sorbet. Less satisfyingly, astringent pineapple dominates a rosemary and chilli sorbet. A four-course menu, the Epicurean, comes in at £30, or £60 with the wines specially selected for each dish.