Camerons

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Recently refurbished and under the new management of the hyper-efficient William Leslie Birch, Camerons – situated in a ground-floor corner of Glasgow's high-rise Hilton – has ditched its fusty Scottish country house past for dark wood fittings and bold abstract artifacts, creating the atmosphere of a luxurious hunting lodge. Diners here are predominantly business types or hotel residents looking for a worthy meal within stumbling distance of their rooms. Careful sourcing is demonstrated throughout the menu, with options of Orkney king scallops, Stornoway black pudding and free-range rose veal from Sunnyside Farm in the Borders. A seasonal specials menu can offer a thickly sliced terrine of Ayrshire ham with a bright yellow piccalilli relish that delivers a sinus-clearing, mustardy punch. From the grill comes an unusual rib-eye steak of water buffalo – raised on Clentrie Farm in Fife – which has a thicker layer of fat and a more gamey, complex flavour than beef. A Madagascan vanilla pannacotta with rhubarb and green apple sorbet makes for an enjoyable palate cleanser. Consistent with the five-star surroundings, the service is courteous and fast, the wine list exemplary, and even seasoned single malt fans will find a surprise or two from the excellent range of whiskies.

• High point: Carries Lebanese cult wine Chateau Musar
• Low point: Split Béarnaise sauce