Peckham's Underground

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

Take the stairs down from Bruntsfield’s venerable deli/wine/beer emporium and you’re in a different world of red velvet seating, polished metal tables and twinkling lights. The menu is short and sweet, with two- and three-course options, as well as sharing platters full of meat and vegetarian goodies from the cold counters upstairs. A starter of aubergine and mint is in need of more oil, longer grilling and a brush with a garlic clove. A merguez sausage stew with rice and pitta bread is full of bite, but could do with more time in the stewing. Desserts are taken care of by the myriad of cakes baked for the Peckham’s chain every week. There’s plenty of choice for early birds, from full Scottish and vegetarian breakfasts through to kedgeree, eggs Benedict and French toast. A toasted bagel gets a dollop of fresh crowdie cheese from Connage Dairy and some Inverawe smoked salmon. And you can wash down your breakfast, lunch or dinner with one of the hundreds of beers and wines from upstairs for a small extra charge.

• High point: Lots of beers and wines to sample from upstairs.
• Low point: Sluggish service and limited opening times.