The King's Wark

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The Leith dining scene continues to change apace, so it's reassuring to see one of its longest established pubs staying ahead of the pack. The main bar offers a traditional bar menu spiced up daily to include blackboard specials; the adjacent dining room (it's not large, so booking a table is always worthwhile) has its own menu offering the same specials, as well as a selection of restaurant-style dishes that show off the kitchen's ability to turn out confident, accomplished cooking, particularly in the fish department. On a bright but chilly Leith lunchtime, the open fire is a welcome and warming sight, and the courteous service immediately sets a relaxed tone. In a harbour bar it would be rude not to try the vast fish and chips – the pleasingly tender and moist haddock comes crisply battered. The fish is accompanied by chunky pub chips and heaps of mushy peas, and completely hits the spot. From the specials board, the Finnan haddie dish exemplifies the culinary adventurousness that marks the King's Wark out from its competition: the substantial flakes of smoked haddock are filling and ooze flavour. This dish is served with a melted brie accompaniment that further emphasises the texture of the fish.

• High point: Melt in the mouth cranachan
• Low point: Bar tables could do with a good scrub