Cornerstone Café

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Set beneath the majestic spire of St John's Cathedral, the Cornerstone Café is a cavernous space where gothic meets church coffee morning in surprising harmony. Arching stone walls, synthetic silk table cloths and a dash of peach make this an appealing, eclectic eatery, and the sizeable patio's a bonus when the sun shines. There may be canteen-style hot plates but this is a fast food joint with standards, with no chips to be seen, and burgers only of the spicy bean variety. Very good they are too – crispy on the outside and soft in the centre with tomatoes, chunky beans and a smidgeon of heat. Equally up to standard is the vegetable chilli loaded with peppers, onions and sweetcorn, with just enough spice to tingle. The spinach, chickpea and mozzarella stew might be improved by a little less spinach and a few more chickpeas but it's still a fresh tasting and filling lunch. The dessert selection isn't huge, but the walnut and coffee cake gives no cause to grumble and nor do the light and fluffy cheese scones. Like the church above, happily embracing all comers, the café is welcoming and fulfilling – albeit in a rather different manner.

• High point: A café full of character…
• Low point: …but the food could do with a little more