Bell's Diner

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Sometimes going out to eat isn't a grand affair. Serving those who are simply satisfied with a big burger and chips in an easy-going environment, Bell's Diner has proved popular with the punters since 1972. National Geographic people photos deck the walls of the compact space, which can be bit of a squeeze, with couples sharing tables when busy. However, the service remains efficient and valiantly upbeat. Eschewing a starter may be wise considering the mighty mains to follow, but should you wish there are substantial choices such as pâté or mushrooms on toast, and soup of the day. Alternatively, just to cut to the chase with the main attraction – the beef patty in a bun bonanza. Burgers come in four sizes, including an empathetic two ounce 'brat burger' for smaller mouths. The ground beef is far surpassed by the highly impressive relish tray that gets passed around the place. Rump steak with, say, garlic butter, is your main alternative. If you lust for sugar, tackle a stupendously sized pancake, stuffed with, and surrounded by, oodles of ice-cream, fudge sauce and skooshy cream. Slightly less excessive is the attractively monikered chocolate cherry Wednesday. Now try walking home!

• High point: The spectacular relish selection
• Low point: Blanched tomatoes with burger