Giuliano's on the Shore

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

Long before Leith had a big restaurant scene, Guiliano’s was serving up Italian staples in this waterside location. Hospitality is a strong point here; front of house staff greet diners with a cheerful welcome and give the place a relaxed, family-friendly atmosphere. Children are well catered for with their own menu and can even help make their own pizzas. It’s very much an old-school Italian, offering dishes that UK customers are familiar with such as spaghetti bolognese, cannelloni and lasagne. There is nothing fancy or innovative about the cooking, it’s old fashioned Anglo-Italian food. Spaghetti with meatballs marries dense chunks of minced beef with a lightly flavoured tomato sauce, the pasta is cooked al dente. Pizzas have a chewy rather doughy base but there are plenty of toppings to choose from. In keeping with Guiliano’s proximity to the sea there is a daily fish menu. Puddings hark back to another era with their flourish of squirty cream. Profiteroles are throughly covered in sweet chocolate, and crêpes are competently made.

• High point: Friendly front of house team
• Low point: Feels rather dated