Giuliano's on the Shore

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

A trip down to the Shore to visit this branch of Giuliano's will not leave you feeling disappointed. Instantly on entering the premises you are made to feel part of the family. This warm hospitality does not cover for a limited menu or lack of attention to detail either: the seafood on the daily menu is so fresh it could still be underwater. A starter of succulent king prawns wrapped in Parma ham with parmesan is pleasing, as is a nutty risotto with hints of red wine and juicy pieces of Italian sausage. For mains, a Swordfish steak steams its way out of the visible kitchen, accompanied by al dente vegetables and new potatoes, joined moments later by Agnolotti pasta stuffed with wild mushrooms and ricotta, dozing in a rich sauce of parmesan and cream with Norcinia sausage. If you can still move after two courses then the warm apple pie with a happily spongey pastry will see you up the road, or perhaps you could try a Tiramisu that has surely been sent direct from Rome. Live music twice a week completes this little slice of Italy by the Water of Leith.

• High point: Outstanding service
• Low point: Cold toilets also used for storage