The Pompadour

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

There was a time when the Caledonian Hotel was an Edinburgh landmark, with the Pompadour, its epicentre, delivering à la carte cuisine in opulent surroundings. While the hotel embarks on a much-needed £22m redevelopment programme, the restaurant remains as luxurious as ever, if a little faded, with breathtaking views over Princes Street and Edinburgh Castle. It offers a blend of Scottish and international cuisine, with menus changing weekly and on a seasonal basis. With attentive staff and an extensive wine list, the Pompadour is an ideal setting for all occasions, from a business lunch to a celebration dinner. Starters such as Isle of Skye scallops on horseradish mash and chicken liver, pine nut and bacon tortellini with celeriac cream are well executed, using high quality ingredients, but are a little let down by their accompaniments. Main courses again make good use of locally sourced produce, and include turbot with an interesting combination of Jerusalem artichoke soup and shredded confit of duck, or an air-dried fillet of Borders beef with a fragrant sweetbread and oxtail ragout. Desserts are impressive: the warm apple and cinnamon soufflé is a real crowd-pleaser, and the vanilla brûlée and Bellini shooter is a highly successful pairing. Let's hope the hotel's refurbishment helps this restaurant regain its former glory.

• High point: The castle panorama
• Low point: Four star dining at five star prices