The Pompadour

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

Sweep up the grand staircase at the heart of the Caledonian Hotel, as Roy Rogers and Trigger historically did decades ago, to enter the opulence of the 86-year-old Pompadour Restaurant. The rococo-inspired interiors, large arching windows and candle-light flickering across starched white linen set the expectation for elegance and high service – an expectation that the ingratiating staff work hard to fulfil. Whether you've come for high tea or a lavish dinner, nothing is too much trouble. The à la carte and five-course tasting menus are exciting, though they don't always deliver. Starters include a rich roasted pigeon with mushroom tortellini, and a somewhat bland vanilla-infused pumpkin soup. Alongside a seared halibut with fricassée of artichokes and an open lasagne of braised leeks and red chard, a traditional ‘black gold’, 28-day-hung fillet is showcased. The meat is wonderfully flavoursome but cooking 'to order' inconsistent, so don't be afraid to send a disappointment back as it's worth it in the end. One suspects the firm, guiding hand of a modern Madame de Pompadour is needed to set the kitchen in order.

• High point: Opulence and atmosphere create a memorable event
• Low point: Kitchen needs greater consistency to live up to its ambitions