Duck's at Le Marché Noir

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

If you are looking for an intimate dining experience with attentive service and classic, well-executed cooking, Duck's certainly fits the bill. It may be a bit out of the centre for true urbanites but it's certainly worth the walk down that steep hill. Named after its charismatic owner, this elegant restaurant offers a menu containing a sophisticated mix of seasonally changing Scottish dishes with a strong French influence. Starters might include an exquisite ravioli of rabbit and thyme in a pearl barley broth or a velvety ballontine of foie gras and chicken. Mains are equally impressive, along the lines of an expertly prepared Gressingham duck breast with Jerusalem artichokes or a pink loin of Perthshire venison with chestnuts and sprouts and a memorable potato fondant. Keep space for a slice of the oozing, sticky treacle tart or a seriously good tiramisu. The wine list is excellent and affordable and has won a number of awards. Try the sommelier's selection of wines by the glass to get the best out of your meal. Book ahead because this place is deservedly busy.

• High point: Seriously impressive food in a wonderful setting
• Low point: Walking back up the hill into town