Apero

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

Apero is unapologetically not about food, it's about the sparkling stuff: champagne. There are a number of bottles on offer for the discerning office worker, and for those who feel that plain old fizz doesn't offer enough pizzazz on its own there is an undeniably impressive cocktail menu. The Classique with cognac, angostura bitters and brown sugar offers a little elegance while the Framboise Royale with raspberry puree and crème de framboise gives a splash of fruity fun. With champagne at its heart Apero is clearly trying to attract those with comfortably bulging wallets and perhaps this is why they've gone for the exclusive airport lounge look. Long black leather benches facing each other with plate glass tables in between give the place a rather cold and impersonal feel that is hard to shake. The lunch menu offers a fine assortment of baguettes, croques and omelettes but in the evening the food is of the light bite rather than hearty meal variety. Skewers of king prawn and black grape or chicken satay sit alongside breads with oil and paté and a charcuterie selection. It's a challenge to achieve greatness in simplicity and while Apero doesn't quite succeed with its food, there is plenty of quality to be found in its bottles.

• High point: Gorgeous champagne cocktails
• Low point: Feels like hanging out at the airport