Khublai Khan Mongolian Barbecue

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Whatever you happen to believe about the cooking methods employed by Mongolian warriors of the 13th century, the tongue-in-cheek presentation of their cuisine at Khublai Khan is bound to raise an eyebrow at some point in the evening. It could be doubted that they dined in such roomy, colourful surroundings, that they were partial to a few slices of springbok or kangaroo in their meal, or even that they kept a strictly vegetarian grill going over the campfire each night in case of visitors who didn't share their enthusiasm for yak ribs. But there is no need to suspend your disbelief to get drawn into the ritual of choosing your raw ingredients from the buffet-style cold cabinet, assembling them in a little bowl and then presenting them to the grill chef for transformation on a corner of the massive hotplate. Tips on good combinations come from the place mats and other diners; information about the rarer ingredients is pinned to the walls. Once you have chosen the recipe the cooking is in safe hands, and you can go back for more just as soon as you spot a good place opening up in the queue.

• High point: Eat to your heart's desire…
• Low point: …but DIY approach may provoke performance anxiety